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Tuesday, 24 May 2011

A Guide For Setting Up Saltwater Aquariums (Parts II & III)

What equipment is needed?

Now that we are comfortable with the basic factors of a saltwater aquarium, let's look at what it takes to run a successful tank. components needed to run a successful saltwater tank depends a lot on who you talk to. You should never act only under the advice of one person. For example, many people advocate using under gravel filters for biological filtration. This, however, must be imbued with wisdom. salt water tank running under gravel filter (UGF) with minimal circulation will be much more work than than the system running the wet / dry filter and a pair of power head. Wet / Dry filters tend to require less maintenance, as UGF's tend to become clogged over time.

not too buried in details, the basic components of saltwater tank are as follows:

Tank Decorations filtration (including protein skimming), lighting the water test kits

Container size

One of the most important decisions in starting a saltwater aquarium will be the size of the container. basic rule is the higher the better. larger tank will be easier to control and gives a little more freedom for error (which is inevitable). The smallest tank for beginners should not be less than 20 liters, 55 liters is even better. For someone versed in the fish line (ie, converting from fresh saline), 10 or 15 gallon tank will work, but it is not suggested. Generally, fish like long, wide tanks. more surface area a tank has a better exchange of gas will be the happier the fish will be.

Fish Density

before finalizing on a tank size, remember that fish densities were significantly lower than sea water. That is, you can not put more fish in the saltwater tank as you can in a freshwater tank. Putting more than 2 saltwater fish in 10 gallon tank is asking for trouble. A general rule of thumb is 4 "(10cm) of small and medium fish per 10 liters, or 2" (5cm) larger / fast growing fish per 10 liters. This is only a rough estimate of the number of fish. There is no exact number, because the density of the findings must take into account the filtration, maintenance, feeding schedule, etc.

after the number of fish you want to keep, the tank size will also affect your filtration and lighting choices, both in price and design. Containers that are 48 inches (122 cm) long are usually cheaper to light because the lamps are available. However, a larger tank, more light, you will need to give your residents. Moreover, the larger the container has an effective filtering system that would be successful. good size tank is around 55 liters. As a note, consider carefully the hood. Many of them are designed for 48 "tanks, but require two 24" lamps rather than one 48 "lamp. (24" lamps are usually more expensive than 48 "lamps .)

<] P] Avoid direct sun exposure

Once you have decided on a tank, be sure to have a place to put it. tank may not be in direct sunlight or in a space that is very drafty. Also, make very certain the stand will be able to hold the weight of the tank, plus substrate, plus rocks, plus water. In total, 55 gallon tank will probably weigh over 800 pounds.



After selecting the tank, consideration must be given to the foundation. It is best to use a limestone base, such as crushed coral or dolomite. These primers will, initially at least, help buffer the water by adding ions to buffer the system. Generally the substrate should not be so small as to be sucked into the filter or pump, and not as big as the tank unsightly. Also, some fish (eg, Gobies) like the smaller classes of substrate over larger ones. Something about 2-5mm department seems average. Live sand is one substrate that has recently received a fair amount of publicity. This technology is really in its infancy and is not recommended for beginners. You can find more information in the archive.

Filtration System

Once you select a background, consider a filtration system to use. Your choice in filtration rate may affect the amount that you need a foundation. UGF or RUGF filter should have about 2-3 "(5cm), medium grade (2-3mm) substrate covering the filter plate. You do not need substrate when you use non-UGF filters (for example, hang-on-the-back power filters), but most people use between 1 / 2 "to 1"for such tanks. It is interesting to note that too much substrate in a non-UGF system might lead to deadlocks, which can kill your inhabitants (a plug for regular gravel cleaning).

Decorating Then, consider the decorations, one of which is a cornucopia of choice. Dead coral, lava rock, tufa rock, live rock, and much more. Coral pieces are the most popular, but also some of the most expensive. Lava and tufa rock are inexpensive and can be stacked to make interesting reef looking tanks. Live rock is one of those buzz words that people like to throw around and one that gets a lot of hype. Live rock is simply rock taken from the reef system, which was inhabited by many different organisms.

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